Phurba Tashi Sherpa


Phurba Tashi Sherpa

Phurba was born in May of 1971 in the village of Khumjung in the Solukhumbu District. When he became an adult, he and Karma Doma Sherpa of Phortse fell in love and were married. They have five children. Their eldest daughter is Sonam Chuttin Sherpa, and their eldest son – a monk - is Sonam Phinjo Sherpa.  They have twins named Phinjo Zangbu and Phinjo Sonam Sherpa. The newest addition to their family is daughter Phinjo Phalmu Sherpa. The family owns and operates several lodges in the Khumbu region, all of which are called Tashi Friendship Lodge. Working at the lodges and promoting the family business keeps Phurba Tashi very busy in the seasons when he is not climbing. Phurba is not climbing Mt. Everest any more after his mother requested him to not climb Mt. Everest as respecting goddess. 


Phurba Tashi has 20 years’ experience in trekking and expeditions. Throughout most of his career, he has worked with internationally-known mountaineer Mr. Russell Brice of Himalayan Experience, Ltd. As a result of his own hard work and determination, Phurba Tashi has become one of the most well-known mountaineers of the Himalayan Region. He has summited Mt. Everest 21 times. He also holds the record for being the person who has summited the most 8000’ers (peaks 8,000m or higher) with a total of 37 summits. Russell Brice was the expedition leader on all of those climbs.  Among those 37 ascents were: Mt. Lhotse (2 times), Mt. Cho-Oyu (6 times), Mt. Shishapangma (1 time), Mt. Manaslu (7 times), and Mt. Ama Dablam (3 times). He has also summited Island and Lobuje peaks many times.

Thank you Message

Phurba extends his gratitude to the author of this book, Mr. Pasang Tshering Sherpa, for compiling his climbing biography.  He also wishes to thank Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa, director of Asian Trekking Pvt. Ltd., who made it possible for him to meet Mr. Russell Brice of Himalayan Experience. He says the support of those two great mountaineers helped inspire him to summit Mt. Everest 21 times. He is deeply grateful for his family and was able to make his many summits because of their love and support, and he did his climbs to provide a happy life for them.

He wants to express his gratitude to all who travel to the Khumbu Region. He wants them all to know that the Sherpa people are kind, friendly and honest; and that the people involved in mountaineering are very dedicated to doing all they can to make visitors’ climbing experiences as safe and comfortable as humanly possible.

Message for the youth

Please do not waste your time, and never overrate your power. Always give priority to your safety.

Message for mountaineers

Phurba is painfully aware of how many Sherpa climbers and tourists have lost their lives in the mountains. He stresses that people should only climb with the assistance of a well-trained and experienced guide. He hopes that people will not give in to the dangerous temptation to climb with someone who only has minimal qualifications (perhaps to save money).

  • 1996 Phurba started his career as a kitchen boy with a group of French climbers on Manaslu. The expedition was organized by Asian Trekking Pvt. Ltd.
  • 1997 Phurba continued working as a kitchen boy, this time with a Spanish expedition that was climbing Shishapangma. In the same year, he worked with an Indonesian expedition that was climbing Mt. Everest.
  • 1998 Phurba made his first ascent above 8,000m on Mt. Cho-Oyu with Mr. Russell Brice.
  • 1999 Summited Mt. Everest for the first time with a group led by Mr. Russell Brice.
  • 2000 Due to bad weather, a planned Everest expedition was canceled.
  • 2001 Climbed Everest from the Tibet side and summited with a group under the leadership of Mr. Russell Brice.
  • 2002 This was Phurba’s ‘Golden Year’ with three successful climbs on Mt. Everest (summited twice in the spring, and then once in the autumn).    
  • 2003 In this year, he reached Everest’s summit on two occasions.
  • 2004 Summited Mt. Everest with leader Mr. Russell Brice of Himalayan Experience.
  • 2005 In this year, Phurba achieved his ninth summit of Mt. Everest.
  • 2006 Phurba Tashi summited Mt. Everest for the tenth time.
  • 2007 Three summits were made on Everest by Phurba Tashi during the spring season.
  • 2009 Phurba Tashi stood atop Mt. Everest on May 5th and again on May 21st.
  • 2010 Two more Mt. Everest summits were made this year.
  • 2011 Phurba Tashi summited Mt. Everest twice in May.
  • 2013 May 10th was the twentieth summit, and May 24th was Phurba Tashi’s twenty-first summit of Mt. Everest.
  • Phurba continues working internationally-known mountaineer Mr. Russell Brice of Himalayan Experience, Ltd.

contents and photos: Copyright © 2019 All rights reserved. HHH 

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